Richmond, Virginia
Virginia is a state that is full of history and sites to see. Its one of the original colonies and home to famous and sometimes controversial Americans such as George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Robert E. Lee and many others. The state has seen some of the best and most triumphant times in US history to some of the darkest times in US history. From the first permeant British settlement, to the final victory in the American Revolution, the ravages of slavery and destruction during the Civil War, Virginia has been a part of it all. Richmond was the center of much of that history and has wonderful scenery to boot. Richmond is the State Capital of Virginia and was once the Capital of the Confederacy. We have visited Richmond a couple times in the Summer and Fall and while we only spent a couple days there we could have spent well over a week and still not seen everything the area has to offer.
Getting to Richmond, Virginia and Transportation
Richmond is one of the largest cities in Virginia and the capital of the state but in general is less connected than some of the other cities in Virginia. Each time we have visited Richmond we have flown into Richmond International Airport. Its a very nice but small airport with flights to major hubs such as Atlanta, Baltimore, Washington DC, New York and Chicago. We changed planes in Atlanta each time we flew to and from Richmond. You could also fly to the larger airports of Reagan National and Dulles International in the Washington DC area and its a couple hour drive down to Richmond. Norfolk on the Peninsula about an hour away also has an airport with a decent amount of flights. Like most East Coast cities it is connected by Amtrack Train as well. To see everything you would want to see in the region you will want to rent a car as there isn’t public transportation out into the countryside.
The Peninsula
Jamestown
Virginia has been involved in the history of the United States from the very beginning. Jamestown was founded in 1607 and became the first permanent British settlement in the now United States. It is where you can learn about John Smith, who is a little more rough character than portrayed by Disney and stories about Pocahontas. Jamestown is around an hour drive from Richmond up the peninsula and is part of a great day trip we took from Richmond. The Peninsula as I call it due to the Civil War battles fought there is a Peninsula between rivers that ends in the Atlantic. There are two places you can visit to see Jamestown. We have only visited Historic Jamestowne that is part of the National Colonial Historic Park. The second place you can visit is the Jamestown Settlement Museum that looks wonderful from passing by it. They have replicas of Jamestowne (historic spelling), their small ships and re-enactors. The actual site of Jamestown is at the historic park. You will find a recreation of the fort on the original grounds, the place where Pocahontas was married to John Rolfe. There is a chapel built later in Jamestown’s history. You can walk amongst the ruins of the later larger Jamestown city. There are monuments to Pocahontas, John Smith, and to the settlement itself. There is a archeology museum that is built on the spot of the first Virginia Capital where they met in the early 1600s. It is a great place to see history and walk along quiet trails (there are great hiking trails in the woods) and to see the waterway. We spent a couple hours at the site.
The American Revolution Museum
Around 30 minutes drive from Jamestown is another area vital to American History. Near the Yorktown National Park is a wonderful museum that is also run by the State of Virginia like the Jamestowne Settlement Museum. We stopped by this museum and it is wonderful. It tells the story of the American Revolution from before it started to some time after it. It is an interactive museum with movies and shows about battles and also has great artifacts. It of course covers the nearby final battle of the American Revolution that all but ensured our countries’ independence. Outside there is a replica Colonial Military Camp with re-enactors and a colonial farm. We saw a musket firing and a cannon firing demonstration while at the museum. You can easily spend a couple hours at the museum and is well worth visiting while in the area.
Yorktown National Park
Also part of the Colonial National Park you will find the battle that basically won the American Revolution for the United States. In 1781 George Washington took his army and joined up with our French Allies to siege the British army led by Lord Cornwallis. A large sea battle off the coast of the peninsula where the British hope to break through and help Lord Cornwallis ended in a French Naval victory. As the American and French troops continued to move closer to the British and took British forts finally Lord Cornwallis surrendered. This battle basically ensured our independence even tough the war continued for a few more years. At this site you can visit a nice visitor center and museum about the battle that includes a replica French ship and then drive the battlefield. There are multiple stops that include a memorial, British, French and American forts and the most spectacular stop being the surrender field. At the surrender field is a pavilion that overlooks where American independence was won and has some of the British cannons that were captured there. The full driving trail is over 15 miles long so the tour will take a couple hours if you stop at all the stops. Its a great drive through nice Virginia scenery.
Newport News/Hampton/Norfolk, Virginia
On each of our day trips down the Peninsula we packed absolutely as much as we could and on our first trip we made it to the tip towards sunset. There are many great museums and sites in that area including a NASA Center, the USS Wisconsin WWII Battleship, a maritime museum that has the turret from the famous iron clad USS Monitor that fought the CSS Virginia nearby in the first metal versus metal ship battle in history. We went and visited Fort Monroe National Monument for a little bit on our first trip. Its a huge fortress that was used as a staging ground during the Civil War. Today people live in the fortress in the many buildings but you can still walk the walls and enjoy the scenery. All the museums and the national park visitors center were closed when we got there. You could see the large Naval Base with aircraft carriers and other ships across the bay. After that we drove the hour and a half back to the Richmond area.
Williamsburg, Virginia
Before we leave the Peninsula in this article I have to mention Historic Williamsburg. While Historic Williamsburg is a very important site being a very old settlement and once a capital of Virginia we did not stop there on the two day trips to the area. I know it would be a great place to visit and some day we would like to go see it but we somewhat tried to stay away from major touristic sites like that one. Its well worth going to but for us it will have to wait for another trip to the area.
The Civil War Around Richmond
With Richmond being the capital of the Confederacy during the Civil War there are more Civil War Battlefields and National Parks related to the Civil War than any other city in the US. Early in the Civil War and late in the War the Union Army was set on taking Richmond. As we all know ultimately Richmond fell in the end. For people who love history and especially military history this is a great place to visit. If you like hiking and being away from the big city this is also a great place to be. On both trips we spent multiple days visiting and hiking the multiple battlefields directly around Richmond and South of Richmond in Petersburg. We also drove out to the site of the end of the Civil War in the East at Appomattox. There is so much to see and do in the area you will need at least a couple days to visit the battlefields around the area.
The Seven Day's Battles
In 1862 Union General George B. McClellan landed on the Peninsula and fought his was with the Army of the Potomac to the gates of Richmond. At the Battle of Seven Pines Confederate General Joseph Johnston was wounded and new general Robert E. Lee took over the Confederate army. In seven days, seven battles where fought that ended with the Union Army retreating and never getting close to Richmond again. Most of the battlefields have been lost to development but there are a few preserved as National Park sites. The Battle of Mechanicsville (Beaver Dam Creek) is a small park where you can see where some of the major fighting took place in that early battle in the seven days. There is a small walking trail and a bridge over the gentle creek. After Mechanicsville came the Battle of Gaines Mill one of the largest battles during the Seven days and the best preserved of the battles around Richmond. There is no visitor center for Gaines Mill but there is a parking lot near the Watt House where most of the fighting took place. At Gaines Mill The Union Army held high ground in a wooded area. The Confederate Army with generals such as George E. Pickett and John Bell Hood and his Texan troops punched a hole through the line and defeated the Union troops causing them to withdraw to fight again the next day. At this site there are great hiking trails through the woods near a creek where much of the fighting occurred. Its a very tranquil walk through the woods with historic markers that tell you what happened at each spot. Across the creek there is an extra walking trail of ground preserved by the American Battlefield Trust (an organization I support). There you will find a Texas monument to the troops that punched the hole in the Union lines. There is a very small National Cemetery dedicated to the Battle of Glendale and some markers for the Battle of White Oak Swamp and Savage Station. The last battle of the Seven days is well preserved and another tranquil place to enjoy a hike. The Battle of Malvern hill was a foreshadowing of what was to come at Gettysburg where Confederate troops marched up a gradual slope of Malvern Hill towards many Union cannons and troops. They never made it to the Union troops and were defeated but ultimately forced the Army of the Potomac to retreat from the gates of Richmond. There is no visitors center the Battle of Malvern Hill but there is a audio history of the battle you can listen to and a nice hiking trail around the picturesque farming land out in the countryside. There are a couple other small stops such as a observation point where Robert E. Lee used to direct troops you can visit as well.
Battle of Drewry's Bluff
A small Battlefield on the South Side of Richmond overlooking the James River you will find the Battle of Drewry’s Bluff. It was a battle between a Confederate fort (Fort Darling) and Union gunboats trying to sail up to the river to take Richmond in 1862. The Confederates were able to hold off the gunboats and they ended up retreating back down the river. Here you can take a less than a mile hike through the woods to Fort Darling on a nice path. You can see the earthworks of the fort and they have large cannons overlooking the river. Its another peaceful scene looking over a slow moving river and endless forest.
Battle of Cold Harbor
In 1864 General Ulysses S. Grant had taken over the Union Army and after fighting since 1861 the war was brought back to Richmond after quite a few attempts. Robert E. Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia was not nearly as strong after flighting for so long but still was a potent force. They built strong trenches at Cold Harbor and readied for an attack. Grant was always very aggressive and launched frontal attacks against the entrenched Confederates. The Confederates repulsed the attacks and inflected heavy casualties to Union troops. Grant heavily regretted his loss at Cold Harbor and the carnage the ill-fated attacks brought to his troops. Cold Harbor does have a small visitor center that goes over Cold Harbor and the nearby Battle of Gaines Mill. Col Harbor and Gaines Mill were nearly fought on the same ground. You can hike the wooded trails and see the well preserved Confederate trenches and also go on a short driving tour that has audio stops. Its another great stop around Richmond.
Fort Harrison (Fort Burnham)
Another site in the Richmond National Battlefield Park preserves a large earthen for that was originally built by the Confederates to protect Southern Richmond but in a battle was taken by Union troops and later re-named Fort Burnham. Robert E. Lee personally directed a counter attack to re-take the fort but was unsuccessful. You can walk the grounds are ready the multiple interpretative signs that tell the story of the fort and the Battle. Ulysses S. Grant had a cannon shell explode over him while at the fort and did not stop writing a letter while his aides ducked. There is also a rare picture that was taken at Fort Harrison/Burnham that shows both Union and Confederate troops in one picture. There is a visitors center but due to Covid and staffing issues it has always been closed. I believe this is a lesser visited park as I have not seen anyone there any time we have visited. Its well worth going to though.
Petersburg National Battlefield
Around 30 minutes drive South of Richmond and you get to another Battlefield that was at the very end of the Civil War. After Cold Harbor Grant followed Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia as they entered large entrenchments. This became a long siege and foreshadowed the terrible trench warfare that was to come in World War One. The Siege lasted nine long months. There were battles during the siege with the most famous being the Battle of the Crater. Some Pennsylvania troops who were miners had the idea of tunneling under a Confederate fort and blowing it up. They successfully blew up the fort killing many defenders in the process but not before a bit of drama with the fuse going out and they having to go into the tunnel and re-lighting it. Union troops rushed into the crater and stopped there aghast at the huge hole blown. This allowed the confederates to make a counter attack and pin the Union troops that mostly consisted of African-American troops into the huge hole. A very long hand to hand fight ensued that ultimately led to the Union troops retreating. The siege at Petersburg ended as the Confederate supply line was cut and they had to run to the West to try to join up with Joseph Johnston’s Army in North Carolina. This ended the protection of Richmond and caused it to be captured by the Union Army. This battlefield is not part of the Richmond National Military park and has a nice visitors center. On our second visit we took a very well done ranger talk at one of the battle sites. There are multiple stops including a replica of trenches. You can also still see the tunnel to the crater and the crater itself. There is plenty of hiking opportunities in a very nice and tranquil park. It took us a couple hours to tour the battlefield and we are very glad we had the chance to visit this end of the Civil War Battlefield.
Five Forks Battlefield
Five Forks is a small but very important battlefield that is part of the Petersburg National Military Park. On April 1st, 1865 while Confederate commanders George E. Pickett (Pickett’s Charge) and Fitzhugh Lee were out to lunch when the Union army under Phillip Sheridan attacked. They rolled up the line of badly outnumbered Confederate troops and captured many of them. This cut Lee’s supply line and caused him to start running towards Appomattox. This is a small park far away from the big city. It is at the historic crossroads of five different roads. There is a small visitors center but it has never been open when we visited. There are around 6 stops with interpretative signs detailing what went on at each stop. There isn’t any hiking opportunities at this park and it takes around 30 minutes or so to tour.
Appomattox Court House National Historic Park
Located a couple hours to the West of Richmond is the site of the final Battle in the East with Robert E. Lee’s Army of Northern Virginia and the site of his surrender to General Ulysses S. Grant. After the loss at Five Forks and a few other battles as Lee retreated Grant caught up with Lee and fought at Appomattox. Appomattox was and still is a small village in the Virginia countryside. Ultimately Lee asked to meet with Grant in Appomattox to discuss surrender. At the home of Wilmer Mclean on April 9th Lee surrendered to Grant in the parlor room. An interesting fact is that Wilmer Mclean had a home near Manassas (the first major battle of the Civil War) and left to go to Appomattox far from the war. Grant started the healing process by granting very good terms to the Army of Northern Virginia including not imprisoning the Confederate troops and letting them keep their guns and horses since they would be needed back at home. Appomattox is a very interesting place today. You can tour the battlefield including both Lee and Grant’s and at the historic park they have the restored village including old shops, the county courthouse and of course the Mclean home. You can walk into the room where the bloodiest war on American soil effectively ended. In the courthouse there is a museum about the end of the war that contains many priceless artifacts. We got there about an hour before closing time so we did not get to see nearly as much as we would have liked. There is also a huge American Civil War Museum near the park we were not able to visit. Its well worth the couple hour drive to see the site.
Museums, Sites and Hikes in Richmond
As I’ve mentioned above there is a treasure trove of history and things to do within a couple hours of Richmond. In Richmond there are great museums and things to see in Richmond itself. While we have not seen everything to see in Richmond itself we have visited some great museums and sites there.
American Civil War Museum
Located in downtown near the James River you will find a wonderful museum dedicated the the Civil War. It is located in the remains of the Tredegar Iron Works that was a vital factory that produced cannons and other arms for the Confederacy during the Civil War. The museum chronicles all aspects of the war. It goes over the causes of the war and the terrible institution of slavery including the saga of African Americans during the Civil War. The museum is highly interactive and they have artifacts from many famous people from the Civil war including artifacts from Robert E. Lee, “Stonewall” Jackson, George E. Pickett and many others. The American Civil War tested our nations resolve and shaped its future even up to today. This museum does a great job showing what the Civil War did to this country and the new freedom given to millions of people.
The White House of the Confederacy
Located in the upper area of Downtown near a hospital is another preserved piece of American History. Owned by the American Civil War Museum you can take a guided tour of were Confederate President Jefferson Davis spent his time as President of the South. The tour gives an insight of the life he lived and those who passed through the house. President Abraham Lincoln for example had the chance to visit the house after Richmond fell to the Union Army. He looked out the window of the parlor thinking who knows what knowing the Civil War could be coming to an end. The American Civil War Museum does not glamorize Jefferson Davis and what the South stood for but just tells the story of a figure pivotal in the struggle for our country and what happened at that home. Its a great tour to take to gain a little more insight to the the people associated with the American Civil War.
Hollywood Cemetery
Not too far from the American Civil War Museum is a huge and old cemetery. While I am not someone who enjoys going to cemeteries this particular cemetery has nice views of the city and is the final resting place of multiple US Presidents and many other famous people. Its worth taking a short drive through the sprawling cemetery and taking a quick walk to the grave of influential Americans such as President John Monroe.
Hike Across the James River
Right across from the American Civil War Museum is a nice city park that includes a long pedestrian bridge across the James River. Some of the boards of the bridge have quotes from both Confederate and Union people chronicling the Union Army taking Richmond at the end of the war. The hike is very nice and scenic as there are many rocks that act as small waterfalls in the very wide James River. You can get a nice view of Downtown Richmond as you walk across the peaceful river. We have enjoyed this hike both times we have visited Richmond.
Hotels and Food in Richmond
Richmond has some great places to stay and to eat that are unique. Each time we have stayed at the Virginia Crossings Hotel and Conference Center in North Richmond. Its a beautiful hotel that was once the headquarters of a fortune 500 company. It looks like an old Southern Plantation and has a nice golf course and tranquil grounds. There is a tunnel between the buildings so if the weather is bad you can still go between the buildings. Its a Tapestry by Hilton hotel. For food we have eaten at local restaurants such as HobNob that has American Food and some wonderful deserts and a great Mexican food restaurant called Plaza Azteca that has some wonderful salsa. I would eat there if they had it here in Houston and that is saying a lot.
Tips for Richmond
As you can see for people who love history or the outdoors Richmond is the perfect place to visit. There are many other museums that we have not been to in the area such as Jamestowne Settlement, The Civil War Soldier’s Museum, the USS Wisconsin, The Mariners Museum and much more. You will need to give yourself a little time for travel when planning the trip as you will most likely need to change planes in a major hub such as Atlanta. You will need to rent a car so factor that into your trip planning. You will also want to give yourselves longer than a weekend trip if you want to see all that the area has to offer. While Richmond is not mentioned as one of the top tourist destinations in the US I think it is a great place to visit and explore our History (good or bad) and get out into the countryside. Give Richmond a try and you will not be disappointed!