Texas Travel – Getting Reacquainted With Home Part IV
One area we visit multiple times a year and during the pandemic there was no exception is the South-Central region of Texas. While the places in this area might be considered part of other regions for my writings I am considering South-Central Texas as areas around San Antonio, East of I-35 in Austin and West of Houston. This would include cities like San Antonio, Gonzales, Shiner, La Grange, and Schulenburg. Its areas that are not in the Hill Country but not truly on the Gulf Coast as well. We visit San Antonio and cities like La Grange every year as part of quick trips where we visit different sites. Donna and I both have a long family history in the La Grange area with my family having been in the area since 1847. There are once again many unique cultures in this area and contains some of the most hallowed ground to native Texans. The history and entertainment opportunities are great in this region and its not a long drive from most areas in Texas. We most recently visited this area this past weekend for a quick trip.
San Antonio
San Antonio is the second largest city in Texas and has been around since 1718. The city is a menagerie of culture and one with a very long history starting with the Spanish all the way to the current days. We have visited San Antonio many times but only drove through it during the pandemic times. The city is home to multiple military bases and many of our Air Force Pilots and Army Medical personnel are trained in San Antonio. The city has a very large Latin American Culture and history aspect to it and that can be found especially when visiting the San Antonio Missions National Park. The Missions are the only Texas UNESCO World Heritage Site. Before the pandemic we visited several of the missions that are still working Catholic Churches today. They are very old but still preserved to chronicle the Spanish and Mexican period on San Antonio’s history. When we visited on a Sunday we could hear a Mariachi band playing in the church and soon after the Mass ended and we toured. It was once again a mixture of history and the present. In downtown San Antonio you can visit the Cathedral of San Fernado that we have visited multiple times. It has been around since the 1700s and is one of the most European architecturally wise Cathedrals that I have seen in the United States. It also contains the remains of the Alamo defenders and faces a large European style Plaza. Nearby you can visit the 1700s era Spanish Governors Palace. For more Spanish culture there is the San Antonio Market Square and of course all the Mexican food you can eat along the River Walk. San Antonio has a great museum we visited on the melting pot Texas has become called the UTSA Institute of Texas Cultures. It showcases all the different cultures and countries in Texas and what areas of the state they settled at.
San Antonio is of course home to some of the most important moments of The Republic of Texas History. Every Texan “Remembers the Alamo” and I have not forgotten to visit or write about it here. In downtown San Antonio nestled between the Historic Menger and Emily Morgan Hotels is a sacred monument to Texas sacrifice. At the historic Spanish mission called the Alamo many Texans died fighting for freedom from Santa Anna and Mexican rule. We visit the Alamo pretty much every time we visit San Antonio but I always wish there was more history about the battle and a little less tourist and carnival Atmosphere around the important historic site.
On the entertainment side of things in San Antonio on the River Walk you can ride a boat to tour the San Antonio River, find any number of bars and restaurants and shop at many stores. On the River Walk once we did witness a neat cultural celebration where hundreds of Japanese lanterns were released on the river all to the sound of live Japanese music. It was a beautiful display that quieted the usually loud and more party like River Walk scene for a time. Near the Alamo and on the Battlefield grounds there is Ripley’s Believe it or not and the Guinness Book of World Records. Near this area you can take an elevator ride up to the top of the Hemisfair to get a great view of the city as we have done before. I personally like the King’s X Toy Soldier shop in one of my favorite hotels in the area, The Historic Menger Hotel. Many famous people have stayed in the Menger Hotel and Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders were founded in the hotel bar. The hotel is said to be haunted but I have not seen any Ghosts when I have stayed there or the haunted Emily Morgan Hotel. You can take a nice Ghost walking tour that shows you these haunted sites. Outside of downtown you can visit Six Flags Fiesta Texas and Seaworld. Its been quite some time since I have been to either but the roller coasters are great in Fiesta Texas. There are some great resorts like the Hyatt Regency Hill Country in the San Antonio area. We have floated down the Lazy River and visited the spa at the Hill Country resort on the West side of San Antonio on a number of occasions. One great way we have toured San Antonio is by taking a hop off hop on bus tour that give great info as you drive around.
San Antonio has many other great places to visit in this diverse city from its great Art Museum, The Pearl Brewery shopping area, The Japanese Garden, The San Antonio Zoo and much more. Its no wonder Texans lover to visit this city and I do too to soak up the history, culture and of course plenty of entertainment.
Gonzales, Texas
A little to the South East of San Antonio is home to the first battle of the Texas Revolution and the starter of the “Come and Take it” craze that you see to this day most recently featuring Air Conditioners saying Come and Take pointed at Ercot. In 1835 Mexican troops came to re-claim a small cannon given to settlers to scare of Native Americans that might attack. The agitated Texans waved defiantly a flag stating “Come and Take it” and fired on the Mexican troops. It was a quick fight and the Mexican troops retreated. This sparked the Texas Revolution and ultimately an independent nation. In the small town of Gonzales we have visited a couple times before there is a small museum that has the actual small cannon that was at the battle and an exhibit on the revolution. You can also visit the battlefield site a few miles away that has a memorial to the quick battle in this historic Texas town.
Shiner, Texas
From Gonzales if you continue traveling East on Alternate 90 through the farmland you come across a small town that is very famous to Texans for one thing. All Shiner Beer is brewed at the small brewery in the city the beer is named of. During the week you can take a guided tour of this changing brewery (when we first toured it was not nearly as mechanized as it is now) and have some free samples of a variety of their beers after the tour. Its a very small city but with a very neat Brewery tour in a much more German area of Texas.
Schulenburg, Texas
If you drive back North to I-1- and go a little East into Fayette County Texas you will come across a very German heritage city in Texas called Schulenburg. This city is near and dear to my heart since its where my Grandfather was born and in the county my family has lived since 1847 after they moved from Germany to the US. Here you can find the German style Oakridge Smoke House and a great place to get Kolaches called the Kountry Bakery. Near the Von Miden Hotel and former Cozy Theater that my family once owned there (and allegedly haunts) is a great local coffee shop called Jack and Mary’s where you can relax on their yard area and slow down for a bit. There is more to this city than just reminiscing about my family history and eating. It is home to the Texas Polka Museum, the Stanzel Model Aircraft Museum where locals to Schulenburg built basal wood airplanes that were once very popular and home to the Painted Churches. I have bought some of the Stanzel models at Antique stores in Schulenburg and they are very nice and at the museum you can see the history and tour the old factory. The painted churches once again go to the areas German and Czech history. You can book a guided tour to visit beautifully painted churches that are much like some you can find in Europe. There is a lot to do in this small town halfway between San Antonio and Houston. Instead of just passing it by stop and learn about the great German Culture and history of the city.
La Grange, Texas
La Grange is the county seat of Fayette County and another city full of German and Czech culture. Its most famous for it being the setting of “The Best Little Whorehouse in Texas” since it is where the infamous Chicken Ranch was located. Also great band ZZ Top wrote the song La Grange about the city (you can all start humming the song). The city is much more than just those things. For me personally its where some of my ancestors first settled in 1847 and I can still visit the home he bought in the late 1800s. There is a building in the downtown square I can find my Great-Great Grandfathers name its its founding brick. My family like many other Germans and Czechs settled in Fayette county and made a new life for themselves. In La Grange you will find a small town with nice charm. In June of 2021 we visited La Grange to find and the beautiful county courthouse the city playing a movie on the square and live music was going on before that. It was nice to see the town enjoying an evening of snow cones and fun. Near the town square and the numerous shops and monuments there is the Texas Quilting Museum and the Texas Heroes Military Museum. This last time we stayed the night in La Grange and ate at a great county cooking place called Hank’s Express. They of course have great Kolache and pigs in the blanket at a variety of places there. My favorite spot in the city is The Monument Hill State Historic Site. On a bluff overlooking the city stand a monument and the remains of those that took part in the Mier Expedition and the Dawson Massacre. This was know as “Black Bean” Incident. After Texas won its independence there were still battles and conflict with Mexico and The Republic of Texas. In 1842 men from the La Grange Area went to invade Mexico to put a stop to the incursions. They were captured and forced to draw beans by Mexican Troops. Those that drew white lived and those that drew black were executed. At the park there is a nice monument to the men and their final resting place. You have great views of the city and landscape. It has a great trail that also goes by the Kreische home and the remains of their brewery. At Christmas time there is a great Christmas lights display at the park we have visited.
Bastrop, Texas
On this somewhat circular trip from San Antonio through this region we arrive in our final stop of Bastrop. We visit Bastrop often and even stay at the Hampton Inn there when we visit nearby Austin from time to time as its usually cheaper than staying in Austin. Its around 30 minutes from Austin and 30 minutes from La Grange. Bastrop is a mixture of a small town and a growing area due to the booming population of Austin. You can find here a mixture of local shops and restaurants but also the chains that you would expect to find in larger cities. Bastrop State Park is home to the interesting Lost Pines. East Texas is full of Pine Trees but as you go West in Texas you do not find many Pine Tree forests. Bastrop has a lone grove of pine trees away from any others. In the park there is camping and hiking trails including some to hills that overlook the area. You can still see the damage from a large forest fire at the park a few years back but life is starting to renew itself in the park. Also a few years back a dam broke in the park and flooded the park and Highway 71 (just a few hours after we had driven past the park on 71). The park has seen its share of trauma. Bastrop has the Hyatt Regency Lost Pines Resort that has great rooms, a lazy river and many activities like the Hyatt Regency Hill Country in San Antonio. The nearby small city of Smithville has a great downtown area with Antique stores.
My Take on the South-Central Region
The Good
This region has a lot of history and diverse culture. San Antonio has been around since the 1700s and is heavily influenced by Spain, Mexico and Europe in general. The San Antonio Missions National Park and The Alamo is the only UNSECO World Heritage site in Texas. Some of the most important moments during the Texas Revolution and early Republic of Texas occurred in this region. In the other areas of the region you can see German and Czech culture including museums, food and churches in the style of Europe. There are many great entertainment options especially in San Antonio with the theme parks, River Walk, shopping and all the bars and clubs. You can relax at the many resorts in San Antonio and in the Bastrop area. There are many great museums and cultural experiences you can have throughout the area. There are many quaint towns and charming cities as you drive where you can find many things to do and just slow down a little. There are plenty of parks and places to get back into nature.
The Bad
For me the area around The Alamo is not nearly as sacred as it should be considering how many people (both Texan and Mexican) defending and attacking the Alamo. The Alamo is more of a tourist site for profit than a place of honor and reverence. I think its great that some of the entertainment venues located on the Battlefield grounds are in San Antonio but Texas should really look into relocating those businesses and return the land around The Alamo to the look it had in 1836. Also there is not nearly enough museum space or exhibits to tell the history of such an important even in Texas and World History. I’ve found throughout Texas we do not do a good job preserving and interpreting our storied and vibrant history. The Texas Historical Commission has of late been doing a much better job but we still have a ways to go. We too often opt to destroy our historic buildings and sites in preference for business or something new. Those things are important but we need to preserve history as well to teach others and explain where we came from. I have seen people wanting to sink USS Texas instead of trying to fix it. Its worth the investment in such a wealthy state. The Alamo is one of the best examples of how we need to do a better job in this area. Also in San Antonio if partying and sometimes crowds are not your thing the River Walk might not be where you want to go as sometimes it has more of a party atmosphere. Like most of Texas extreme heat, floods and severe storms are somethings to watch for.
In Conclusion
This region has some of the most interesting and historic cultural areas in the state. From the Spanish Missions, Cathedrals, The Alamo, German/Czech sites and plenty of great food options you can dive into multiple cultures in Texas. There are so many great museums and entertainment options in San Antonio and beyond. We though need to do a better job of preserving and honoring The Alamo. This is another great area in Texas and one that has taught me so much about where we came from as a state and where we are going.